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Charmaine’s side of the story:\u00a0North Kenya<\/p>\n
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The Yare Club in Maralal is where a Camel Derby is held in August every year and is a wonderful campsite.\u00a0 It was a good place to relax before heading toward Wamba and Marsabit as we had heard the roads are bad in the north. We rode through some of the most amazing scenery we have seen yet, real national geographic and travel channel style stuff, and we were in it, unbelievable! \u00a0 Beautiful!\u00a0 Lots of Sambura herdsmen\/boys with their cattle\/goats along the roads.\u00a0 Flat open areas with canopy thorn trees scattered in the distance and also some valleys that were quite bushy.\u00a0 Some of the normally dry riverbeds were fast-flowing rivers as a lot of rain has fallen over the last week.\u00a0 All the plains are green with little white and blue flowers along the road and there is the sweetest scent in the air.\u00a0 We saw our first Vulturine Guinea Fowls with their amazing cobalt blue feathers – really an awesome sight.\u00a0 We passed many nomadic villages, with thorn bush cattle kraals and very colourfully dressed people, especially the women.\u00a0 They wear huge beaded neckbands with their colourful blankets; beads are also strapped on their head in a fashion and not forgetting their big colourful earrings.\u00a0\u00a0 They are by far a more beautiful and colourful tribe than the Masai.\u00a0 Apparently, there were 2 brothers,\u00a0 one named Masai and the other named Sambura who moved into 2 different areas, the Sambura brother stayed in the north of Kenya and the Masai brother went further south to South of Kenya and northern Tanzania, that is why the dress code is so similar.\u00a0We eventually got to the East African Highway, which is nothing more than a very poor condition gravel road.\u00a0 You would have thought that by now the government of the various countries would have improved the main highways in their countries that would aid the import\/export system as well as improve on the tourism.\u00a0 We had to travel quite a bit slower on this road as in some places the, middle mannetji,\u00a0 was huge (sharp rocks, corrugation, sandy, muddy).\u00a0 The road goes through a game reserve and it was like going on a game drive,\u00a0 we saw grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, gerenuk (which is a weird-looking buck with a long neck and a little head).\u00a0 We saw loads more of the vulturine guinea fowl and loads of little dikdik.<\/p>\n
When we got to Laisamis we decided that there was enough light to go on to Marsabit, so after having a pee over the edge of a bridge we headed north!! \u00a0 Not even 10km the other side of the town we got a porridge,\u00a0 wheel.\u00a0 We had heard about the very sharp stones that cut into the sidewall of tyres from a german\/dutch guy on a DR800 who was heading south,\u00a0 he had left Marsabit that morning and had had 2 flat tyres, besides getting stuck in some mud in the area.\u00a0 J checked the front tyre and we couldn’t see any damage so he used the little compressor and pumped it up.\u00a0\u00a0Op pad na Masabit, 3 of wat km na die foto geneem is\u00a0het ons die pap wiel gehad, lyk baie soos Ceres,Calvinia area, Pad net baie slegter, but it took forever to get the pressure, Johan noticed a slight ding in the rim and even though he didn’t say anything I could see that he was getting worried that we had a more serious problem, of the air leaking out the side next to the ding in the rim. When we switched the compressor off we heard a hissing noise, no Kyle and Connor it was not a snake, and Praise the Lord, Johan found a spot where the tyre had been cut by a stone. \u00a0 Johan’s face lit up immediately, muchly relieved he whipped out the puncture repair kit and blocked the hole. Thank you Jesus that after about 45 minutes we were on the road again.\u00a0 Up ahead we could see a huge cloud burst, especially over the mountain areas but thankfully the curve in the road and the direction of the wind kept us dry.\u00a0 We headed into areas that looked just like the Karoo except there were no big sheep farms,\u00a0 I wonder why as the conditions look very similar!\u00a0\u00a0We contemplated riding until dark then setting up camp in the bush (without the tent) until we saw a hyena,\u00a0 that sort of helped us make up our minds that we would travel slowly all the way to Marsabit! The Lord blessed us even more as we had a night game drive, we saw the hare, rabbit, owls, gazelle, gerenuk, dikdik, and not forgetting the hyena. \u00a0 We eventually got to a police roadblock, long closed for the night,\u00a0 and rode through and not even 50m further we found ourselves in the worst mud conditions ever. \u00a0 Slippery, sticky reddish mud!!\u00a0\u00a0 Poor J, I could feel every muscle tense as we went literally step-by-step along the road for about 4km.\u00a0 It seemed to take forever, slippy sliddy, it even caked onto Johan,s boots.\u00a0\u00a0 I sat as still as I could and tried to keep my feet as high on the footpegs and out of Johan’s way.\u00a0 My poor baby was getting exhausted.\u00a0 When we eventually got into the main part of the town we asked at a fuel station where Jeyjey’s was and it was only another 200m down the road but luckily this part of the road was firmer. We parked the GS in the courtyard, booked in and had a good HOT shower and relaxed.\u00a0 The next morning we went for a walk to see what the road looked like but it had dried during the night so it did not look half as bad as the night before. We took the GS out of the courtyard and scraped off as much of the mud as we could,\u00a0 the photos will explain more about the mud than I can tell.<\/p>\n
The night before we left Marsabit we met the most interesting Croatian,\u00a0 Robert Skejic , he is riding all the way from Croatia to Cape Town on a very loaded Africa Twin (2 panniers, top box and a large backpack). \u00a0He speaks quite good broken English and explained to us that the road north to Moyale is the worst road he had ever ridden on, and the worst section is the 50km closest to Moyale – muddy and rocky!\u00a0 He tried to show us his photos on his laptop but the poor computer was confused from the bumpy road! We were up and about and ready to leave Marsabit at 5am on Wednesday 24th November. It had started to rain again and Johan said we should head out before the roads got all mushy. Very good advice as the roads were wet but not slippery yet and not mushy. Thank you Jesus. We travelled very slowly through the rain and just a little way out of town the rain stopped. We rode through the still fast asleep police roadblock and headed towards Moyale, the Ethiopian border.\u00a0We stopped about 14km out of town to take the rain cover off the tank bag and when we started going again.\u00a0 j battled to get the GPS switched on – so he stopped again, \u00a0 that’s when a huge cloud of\u00a0SMOKE\u00a0come from under the seat and we smelt something seriously burning!! Even though the GS was switched off, the lights and all the flickers came on and because of the light j thought we were on fire!!!\u00a0 We both baled off the GS and tried to see what was going on, but in the dark at about 5.30 am we were really in the dark!!\u00a0 Johan whipped the seat off and frantically checked the fuses but the lights would not go off!\u00a0 We saw that the main section of the electric wiring harness was seriously fried and we did not know what else was getting damaged. \u00a0 Disconnecting the ticking ABS relay turned the lights off but then the bike would not start.!! All these things were happening so fast!!\u00a0 The next best thing that Johan did was disconnect the battery.\u00a0 We pushed the bike onto the side of the road and Johan started to strip the bike to check out the damage.<\/p>\n
All while this was happening we saw the sun rising, God really painted the sky with beautiful colours for us.\u00a0 We also started to see how beautiful the area was, that we had broken down in.\u00a0 It was right next to one of the craters in the area,\u00a0 awesome to look down into the centre of the (now green) crater. The animal noises were also nice to hear, like donkeys, camels, goats and birds. \u00a0 It drizzled every now and then and we also got covered in low cloud at one time. \u00a0 I tried to help Johan as much as I could and when he saw that the GS was beyond roadside repair, \u00a0 Johan put her back together again and we decided to push her to the police roadblock.\u00a0\u00a0Boy, am I unfit!\u00a0 Huffing and puffing, muscles straining (did I mention that it was uphill!) we pushed the 350kg GS along the bumpy corrugated gravel road.\u00a0 Some locals passed us along the road and just looked at us as if we were nuts! \u00a0Then one fella helped for a bit and also gave up and carried on his way.\u00a0 1.5km later some shepherd boys came along and Praise the Lord they helped us push all the way to the police roadblock, a total of 3km. I fed them most of Johan’s, padkos, samoosa’s and then they went on their way! Thank you Jesus.\u00a0 Johan went to look for someone at the roadblock house but the guy who came from the security area was from the KBC, Kenyan Broadcasting Corporation. \u00a0 He was a very nice and understanding fella.\u00a0 He allowed us to push the GS onto their property and then suggested that we push it all the way to where he stayed. \u00a0 Much safer and further from the road,\u00a0 the police also live there, again thank you Jesus.\u00a0 He also said that it would be safer to pack our stuff in his room, \u00a0 wow, again thank you Jesus.\u00a0 Johan decided to strip the complete wiring harness out of the bike so that it could be sent to Trefco,\u00a0 so the big job began.\u00a0 It took us 3 hours of dirty (because of the mud), nails breaking (for the girls!!!), cable plotting and unplugging (thank you BMW for modern plug connections) and believe it or not good-humoured work!! That can only be from Jesus!!\u00a0The guys at KBC were very friendly and very helpful.\u00a0 They stood around for the 3 hours watching while we worked, only in Africa!\u00a0 They told us that the first bit of traffic that comes past from Moyale is at about 2pm most days.\u00a0 We were all packed and heading for the road by 1.45pm.\u00a0 We had no sooner walked through the security gate than a blue landy stopped at the police roadblock and we got a lift (1.50pm). \u00a0 Thank you Jesus!!\u00a0 Back in Marsabit we went straight to Jeyjey’s and got the folks to phone us.\u00a0 Boy, do we owe you guys big time, thank you again!\u00a0Johan spoke to John Carr and it was decided that the GS had to be taken to Nairobi to the BMW dealer,\u00a0 so with the help of Duba (remember his name guys for whenever you are in Marsabit,\u00a0 he is very genuine, honest and helpful, also a very good tour guide for the area) he organized us a lift on an empty truck to Nairobi and a bakkie to fetch the GS from the KBC,\u00a0 for the next day 25th Nov. Well, the bakkie came to fetch us at about 10.30 am and we were about 100m down the road when I realized that the bakkie had a roll bar and the GS would not be able to fit under it!\u00a0 We stopped the driver and climbed off,\u00a0 by this time Johan was losing his sense of humour. We went back to Jeyjey’s and explained the problem to Duba,\u00a0 in no time he organized a tractor with a trailer,\u00a0 Johan’s sense of humour was definitely way out of the window by now!<\/p>\n
By 12 o’clock we were standing on the trailer and heading out of town to the KBC.\u00a0 The closer we got to the GS the more relaxed Johan seemed to get. Johan got busy putting the loose bits back on the GS and I packed all our things and moved them outside to load onto the tractor’s trailer. The GS got loaded next to the road,\u00a0 the trailer was parked in a dip to lower the back so that it was easier to load the GS, then\u00a0 Johan put on the fuel tank and the slow journey to the cereal board, started (2km’s the other side of town where we had to meet the truck).\u00a0 Bless his soul, the tractor driver took us on a scenic route through the village but when we got to the cereal board,\u00a0 we were told that the truck had left!\u00a0 Only to discover when we got back to Jeyjey’s that the truck driver had gone to look for us,\u00a0 but of course, he missed us because we were on the scenic tour!!\u00a0 But Praise the Lord, the truck driver came back to Jeyjey’s and we could load\/push the GS from the trailer onto the truck.\u00a0At long last we were on our way, the driver and his assistant thought it was hysterical that these 2 mzungu’s (white people) wanted to sit on the back of the truck and not in the cab!!\u00a0 I got prepared for a very cold night and maybe even a wet one but Praise the Lord, He not only gave us a full moon so that we could see the animals, but He also gave us a warm night and He sent the rain ahead of us, yip, it made the roads very mushy and our trip slow going, max 20km\/h on the gravel section (half the distance) but we didn’t get wet.\u00a0 It was loads of fun sitting on the roof of the truck with my love, quite romantic, who of you can say that you have been kissed on a roof of a 1950’s Fiat truck in the middle of the desert in the north (only just) Africa?!!\u00a0Thank you Jesus for making our adventure even more adventurous!\u00a0 We didn’t see many animals along the way (I think because of the rain) except for goats, camels and donkeys.\u00a0 The odd little dikdik was the only wild game we saw but we were blessed with abundant birdlife,\u00a0 pale chanting goshawk, yellow-necked spurfowl (francolin), vulturine guinea fowl, crowned plover, spur winged plover, black faced sand grouse, white bellied go-away bird, montane nightjar, speckled mouse bird, lilac breasted roller, \u00a0hoopoe, red-billed hornbill, swallows, drongos, bulbul, boubou, golden breasted starling, superb starling, black headed weaver, speke’s weaver, white headed buffalo,weaver, white browed sparrow weaver, pin tailed whydah, blue capped cordon blue, and lots of others!\u00a0………………..Blessed, I tell you!<\/p>\n
The truck stopped in some of the villages along the way, only for the drivers to check the truck and trailer and to stretch their legs and to have a widdle!\u00a0 Oh, the only place for me to widdle was in the back corner of the truck,\u00a0 at night this was easy and Praise the Lord, I only had to go for a widdle during the day when the truck stopped in Isiolo, I climbed up over the back railing of the truck and went to a local road side hotel’s loo’s, urghy!\u00a0 In Africa you learn to hold your breath before you go into a loo, hover and do your business, then get out of there as soon as possible, \u00a0 hopefully before you faint from lack of oxygen.\u00a0 Oh, and always carry pieces of toilet paper in your pockets!!\u00a0The scenery from Marsabit to Isiolo is mostly wild and bushy.\u00a0 Very beautiful with little or I should say few people along the way.\u00a0 Then from Isiolo the tar road starts and there is more development and huge farms, tea, coffee, veg (tomato, cabbage) and other plantations? I’m not sure what!\u00a0 It is extremely beautiful and green all around Mt Kenya.\u00a0 We could see the snow on the top from the north side but south of the mountain clouds blocked the view. \u00a0All along the way, we could see that heavy rain had fallen, fast-flowing rivers, flooding in small villages, streams next to and flowing across the road.\u00a0 This is the little rainy season,\u00a0 I cannot imagine what it must look like in the heavy rainy season.\u00a0 I’m sure that a lot of people must get cut off from the rest of the world for quite a few days during that time of the year.\u00a0The truck stopped in the north of Nairobi city in a not so nice area.\u00a0 The driver was pretty pooped and had arranged for a bakkie to take us the rest of the way.\u00a0 There was a bit of a dispute on the fee as we asked to be dropped off at the Upper Hill campsite instead of BMW!\u00a0 The reason was that it was dark and BMW was long closed for the weekend!\u00a0 Anyway, we eventually moved the GS from the truck onto the bakkie and went on another amazing ride!\u00a0 I thought the traffic and dala dala’s in Dar where bad, you should see this mob!\u00a0 Rules of the road do not exist with these guys.\u00a0 The bakkie driver (an ex bus driver,\u00a0 need I say more!!) was telling me how, stupid, \u00a0 the bus drivers and taxi drivers are as they just do what they want to do, \u00a0 but he was doing the same!\u00a0 The vehicles ride so close to each other, sometimes 4 up in a 3-lane road and then some come careering past on the left of you, \u00a0 yip on the pavement! The pavements are pretty trashed in this town!\u00a0 I’m sure you couldn’t even get a piece of paper between 2 vehicles as the drivers force themselves across each others lanes. Oh, they also hoot at each other and shout at each other, never a dull moment.\u00a0 You should hear some of the hooters\/horns on these vehicles, they sound like ships horns and the busses are decorated with colourful running and flashing lights, reminded me of the Christmas lights on the houses in Edgemead!<\/p>\n
I was extremely happy to see the Upper Hill campsite and even happier to hear that they had hot showers.\u00a0 32 hours later we off loaded all our goodies and then the GS. \u00a0 Thank you Jesus for looking after us and getting us, with the GS, to a secure environment. We set up camp, SHOWERED\u00a0(we were rather grubby little children and our clothes?.. I had to soak them overnight in omo,\u00a0 filthy!!) and then had a good meal of soup, salad and veg lasagna.\u00a0 I was soo happy to crawl into the tent and snuggle next to Johan.\u00a0We have discovered on the map in the campsite office that the campsite it perfectly situated for tourists without their own transport.\u00a0 About 2km west are the shops and internet caf\u00e9, 2km northeast is Nairobi central and 3km east is the BMW garage, Praise the Lord!!\u00a0 Nairobi is quite clean and by far the most western orientated town that we have been in.\u00a0 Lots of new modern buildings, park areas and trees along the roads,\u00a0 a pretty town.\u00a0 The people are really very friendly as well but we have been warned to be careful and to be on the look out for conmen! \u00a0Upper Hill campsite is pretty neat,\u00a0 just rather noisy! Or I should say the neighbours are noisy ? the yucky doof-doof stuff but thank fully only on the weekends. The bird life is good here , paradise fly catchers, red billed fire finches, white browed sparrow weaver, baglafecht weavers and they seem pretty used to people as you can get quite close to them.\u00a0 Oh and lots of black kites,\u00a0 Connor the ones with feathers that look like an eagle!!\u00a0The GS has an appointment with Doc Chris at Mashariki Motors, BMW Nairobi tomorrow, \u00a0 so you will have to wait for the next email to hear the prognosis.<\/p>\n
Een van die mooiste gesigte van die Rift Vailey, Mt Longonot, ‘n uitgestorwe vulkaaniese berg, 2300m hoog, en ons kyk af op die berg! Op daadie punt was ons 2650 bo seespieel.<\/p>\n
We are still patiently waiting for the spare parts from Germany for the\u00a0bike. We took it to the BMW dealer in Nairobi and now we have to wait. The bike is still under warranty and praise the Lord they are fixing it for free. We also got a new front shock under warranty. It is just the wait thing that gets to us sometimes. And every day money is spent on food and accommodation that we did not budget on, but Dad is the King and we are just hanging in here. If any one of you now somebody in Nairobi that has a spare room or a spare piece of lawn for us, please be so kind to tell them about us.\u00a0 In this time we have become good friends with Robert, a Croatian with an Africa Twin on his way to RSA.\u00a0He took us one evening to Carnivores restaurant. A very interesting place with Camel and\u00a0Crocodile on the list of meats you can eat as much as you wish. Needless to say we decided not to be vegetarian for that night and we ate some of all. Crocodile meat was the best! \u00a0 The other nice thing we did was the Elephant Orphanage. They had 9 small elephants of ages 6 weeks to 14 months, too cute! There is also a baby Black Rhino of 16 months.\u00a0 By Friday we will know what goes for what with our bike.<\/p>\n
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8 December 2004<\/h2>\n
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Verveelde kinders<\/p>\n
Jip, ons is \u00a0vrek vervelig, maar byt nog vas. Ons was gister by Del Monte om sommer maar net te kyk, maar hulle wil ons nie laat ingaan nie. Het gese ek het vir Del Monte in RSA gewerk en lekker met die een ou gesels Thika is pineapple country and Del Monte is the biggest pineapple factory in the Southern hemisphere Die fabriek is baie groot en het pynappel plantasies so ver die oog kan sien. As dinge met die bike nie gou wil uitwerk nie, sal ek terug gaan en vra vir kontrak werk, maar die keer sal die pay baie beter moet wees. Kenia in geheel is baie meer jacked up as Malawi, so ek dink dit sal baie beter wees om hier te werk as in Malawi. Maar eintlik wil ons eerder die pad vat en uit Afrika kom, is nou lus vir Europa.<\/p>\n
The R80Gs was a real lifesaver and handled\u00a0the city traffic better than what 1150 would have.\u00a0Thanks again to Mashariki Motore for lending us the R80Gs.<\/p>\n
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11 December 2004<\/h2>\n
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On Thursday evening the new wiring harness came from Germany.\u00a0\u00a0 Friday Chris (Mashariki motors) started working on the bike, but did not finish, and will continue work on\u00a0Tuesday because\u00a0Monday is a public holiday.\u00a0 For those of you who do not know our phone nr in Kenya is +254735468508. An SMS would be nice. That’s all for now.\u00a0Mag die liewe Heer julle Big Time se\u00ebn!<\/p>\n
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17 December 2004<\/h2>\n
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On the road again.<\/p>\n
We got our baby yesterday from the ‘hospital’ and I must just say that there is no comparison between an R80GS and a 1150GS except the badge.\u00a0 The diagnosis from the ‘doc’ was that the battery box was chafing on the wiring harness and was aggravated on\u00a0Africa’sbeautiful roads!!!!!<\/p>\n
Dis ‘n teerpad op pad na Naivash en party paaie is weg\u00a0gespoels soos Lake Baringo
\nAnd we thought GS’s were made for this!!!\u00a0 You live and you learn! but the GS stays with us.\u00a0 And Praise the Lord, everything has been replaced and repaired under warranty! We went for a test ride(300km) today and the baby is 100% okay. Tomorrow we will rest (yeah right, the pack is more like it) and Saturday we will be out of here!<\/p>\n
If any of you come to Nairobi, you just have to go to the Karen Vineyard Church at Hillcrest School (in Karen). \u00a0We met the most wonderful Christian brothers and sisters. \u00a0Jim and Beverly and their 2 daughters are also bikers from the USA and have been here for 18 years.\u00a0 They took us to their favourite Indian Restaurant and then we had coffee at their house on a compound with 2 other families.\u00a0 The most awesome friendly people.\u00a0 Wie van julle kan ‘n engelse\u00a0‘Hope for the Highway’\u00a0sponsor en stuur?\u00a0\u00a0SMS ons asb. There are loads of bikes in Nairobi, we have seen ZX9, VMax, 500 Shadow; loads of old BMW’s – R100’s, GS’s andRT’s; big scramblers – KLR650, TT Tenere, Honda XR600, Africa Twin; the police ride F650’s and R1100RT’s (with spoke rims; they replace rear tyres every 2000km’s; and the brake pads and clutch every 20000km’s!!!)) \u00a0 Also many motorcross bikes on trailers, but have not seen any quads!\u00a0………………Ai maar hy ry lekkerrrrr!!!. In die agtergrond is die sout fabriek by die meer.<\/p>\n
We plan (is that possible in Africa?!!)\u00a0to be in Ethiopia by Christmas.\u00a0…………….God bless you all, and please pray for our safe journey as we venture into\u00a0real Africa!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
17 November 2004 Once again the border crossing and paperwork went smoothly, thank you Jesus.\u00a0\u00a0The only unsure thing was getting 3rd\u00a0party insurance for …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":149,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[10],"tags":[178],"class_list":["post-128","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-africa","tag-kenya"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/jc4ever.co.za\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/pexels-justin-brian-9833516.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/jc4ever.co.za\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/128","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/jc4ever.co.za\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/jc4ever.co.za\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jc4ever.co.za\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jc4ever.co.za\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=128"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/jc4ever.co.za\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/128\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":731,"href":"https:\/\/jc4ever.co.za\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/128\/revisions\/731"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jc4ever.co.za\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/149"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/jc4ever.co.za\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=128"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jc4ever.co.za\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=128"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jc4ever.co.za\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=128"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
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